Sunday, November 7, 2004

Last evening I noticed a crackling sound which at first sounded like rain on the deck then I realized that it wasn't raining and the sound wasn't coming from above  the deck but coming from beneath the hull!  Later in the night I realized that the sound didn't stop.  It was then that I remembered reading about the krill, immature shrimp, that feed off the bottom growth on boats and makes this sound at night.  It was really amazing and continued into the morning.  Glad I remembered this bit of information because I would have otherwise thought that our boat was coming apart!

Spent the day touring Charleston.  What a wonderful, historic city.  It has many very beautiful old buildings and streets lined with palm trees.  Took a tour of the Old Exchange Building and Provost Dungeon.  Was really neat with history dating back to 1771, included a pirate dungeon where they held pirates prisoner.  Did some Christmas shopping at the open market in the old slave market buildings on Market Street.  Took a vacation time-sharing investment tour which included  a tour of a Lagoon 42 foot catamaran, a tour of a time share apartment, and a brief historic tour of the city.  For 90 minutes of our time we received a check for $100 - covered the cost of our dock and was a llot of fun!  No we didn't buy into the time-share.  Charleston was a great stop and we're so glad we didn't miss it.

When we got back to the boat we made arrangements with a marina in Hilton Head that offered us a very reasonable weekly rate to leave the boat there for a week while we go home to see family.  We plan to be in Hilton Head on Wednesday and pick up a rental car on Thursday and drive home.  I'm really looking forward to seeing Emma and Matt and the kids and spending some time with them -we really miss them.

Charleston                                                                               St Phillips Episcopal Church

Exchange building and Provost Dungeon Museum tour - circa 1771

Monday, November 8, 2004

Left Ashley Marina in Charleston at 8:00 am.  A late start but the bridge that's only 2 miles away doesn't have a morning opening until 9:00 am so there was no rush.  As it was we just sat in the canal and waited anyway.  Traveled through lots of windy rivers today.  Seems like all we did was snake around bends and try to stay out of mud flats.  The banks of most of these rivers in SC are nothing but mud flats.  Did see a dolphin which was a surprise for such mucky water - we think it might be good feeding grounds.  Took a side trip about a mile and a half up "Mosquito Creek" to spend the night at B&B Seafood and Marina - basically a shrimp dock - $25 for the dock and $4.50 for a pound of the best fresh shrimp going!  Can't beat that.  Just hope the place doesn't live up to its name.  Tomorrow we head to Beaufort SC.

Tuesday, November 9, 2004

No mosquitoes in Mosquito Creek but lots of no-see-ums in South Carolina.  The stop at B&B Seafood was a good one.  Very quiet and the stars at night were terrific.  Left the dock around 8:00 am.  Lots of current pushing us into the dock so it was interesting but we got off ok.  Today was a short trip just over three hours and we were in Beaufort SC.  Decided that since we'd have the afternoon to explore Beaufort we'd take a dock slip close to the downtown area.  Again lots of current and the dock master got on the radio and said  he'd walk us through exactly how he'd like us to dock and under no circumstances were we to turn into the slip until he told us to - just   follow his instructions.  He told us what lines he wanted us to have ready.  It was pretty exciting - hard to explain without a diagram but he basically had me go past the dock and perpendicular to it, broadside to the current,  then do a figure eight that would bring the bow up into the current back down and then up again toward the dock and into the current, throw him a bow line and let the current back us down and into the dock.  All the time I was taking orders over the radio from the dock master and performing these maneuvers Alan was on the bow trying to figure out what we were doing and hoping that I was doing exactly what  the dock master was telling me to do - Alan claims that I don't always do what he's telling me to do!  What's he talking about?  Well it all worked but my heart was pumping when all was done!

We took a walking tour of Beaufort and visited the Beaufort Arsenal built in the late 1700's and the Verdier House a historic home (Federal style) built in 1805 by a local wealthy merchant.  Learned a lot about the history of Beaufort and the surrounding "sea islands" which include Hilton Head and Parris Island. 

On the way down here today we passed a boat from Ludlow VT.  Talked to them on the radio and turned out Scott has worked ski patrol and Heather teaches skiing at Okemo and they know our friends Warren and Betsy - small world.  We visited with them later in the day on board Mystic Jitney.  They're heading to the Bahamas after they go back to VT for the ski season! 

Beaufort Arsenal

Spanish Moss

Wednesday, November 10, 2004

Went to breakfast at Blackstones Cafe in Beaufort where they serve breakfast all day!  Back in Mosquito Creek the woman at the shrimp dock told us that shrimp and eggs and grits was something that we had to try.  So we went for the local fare - Alan had shrimp and grits and I had a shrimp omlette.  Both were excellent!  A very filling breakfast - would surely fill out around the middle with too many of these.  Left Beaufort at noon.  We had a short trip to Hilton Head and were told not to arrive at the marina until after low tide - at low tide they only have about 2 feet of water.  The wind  was blowing 30 knots out of the east and our crossing of the Port Royal sound just south of Parris Island was nasty.  Pulled into Hilton Head Harbor Marina and RV park with the wind blowing and a fierce current.

Cleaned the boat and started getting out all the bags of gifts we've purchased to bring home for the holidays.  A couple of local boaters came by to welcome us and invite us to a cookout for dinner.  Tomorrow morning we pick up our rental car and start the drive home.  We plan to be back here next Friday the 19th to continue our exploration of Georgia's beautiful coast and on into Florida.

 l