Monday, October 25, 2004

Raised anchor at 7:00 am and motored out of Jackson Creek Deltaville.  Winds out of the north at 10k with 1 foot following seas.  We were onn a tight schedule because we wanted to make it through three bridges before the Dismal Swamp and they have a restricted period between 3:30 pm and 5:30 pm when they will not open.  Bob and Pat aboard "Changes in Latitude" are about a half hour behind us.  Entered Hampton Roads, Norfolk VA around 12:30pm.  I've never seen so many ships, barges, and navy ships, submarines, etc.  in my life.  It's nothing but navy.  We're finally out of the Chesapeake.  Arrived at the official start of the ICW(Intra coastal waterway), mile marker 0 at 1:30pm.  Made it to the first set of bridges by 2:45pm but just as we were approaching the train bridge went down and a very slow freight passed over.  After we got through we boogied on down to the last bridge - arrived there about 3:20pm.  Another train! When I radioed the bridge tender he said he'd open as soon as the train bridge went up and that I might want to contact the captain of a northbound barge that was coming through.  Talked to the barge captain and agreed that he'd come through before us and we'd hang out on the side of the channel to let him clear.  We were the last boat to get through before the 3:30pm closing.  Our friends Bob and Pat got stuck between bridges and had to hang out until 5:30pm for an opening.  Entered the Great Dismal Swamp canal and anchored in a turning basin about a half mile in.  Will go for the 8:30 am lock through tomorrow morning.

Norfolk VA Navy yards

Tuesday, October 26, 2004

Left the turning basin on Deep Creek at 7:30am and headed for the Deep Creek lock.  Entered the lock at 8:30am.  There were four of us locking through.  Once we exited the lock we proceeded to a bridge not 1/2 a mile in that we had to wait for because the lockmaster is the same person who opens the bridge.  He gets in his car after locking boats through and drives up the road to open the bridge.  Once through the bridge we were officially in the Dismal Swamp canal.  There is nothing dismal about this swamp at all.  It's absolutely beautiful - banks lined with huge cypress trees annd all sorts of vines and unusual  foliage.  Very narrow and straight.  The 17 mile trip to the North Carolina Visitors center, which is about halfway through the canal, was quiet, peaceful, and really enjoyable.  We tied up at the dock at the visitors center and decided to spend the afternoon and night there.  The visitors center is actually a welcome center for both motorists traveling on highway 17 and for boaters traversing the canal.  Tomorrow we will travel the rest of the canal and make a stop at Elizabeth City.  We're finally in North Carolina!  By late afternoon we had 12 boats tied up, rafted 4 deep at the visitors center and by 4:00pm a party had begun on the dock.  Met a lot of great people, enjoyed good food and good stories.

Got a phone call from Emma that they admitted our granddaughter, Sydney, to Albany Medical Hospital.  We had known this might be coming but were hoping it wouldn't happen.  She's had a persistent cough for 2 months that hasn't responded to oral antibiotics or her nebulizer treatments.  She's cultured for a new form of pseudomonas bacteria and the doctors wanted to treat it aggressively.  The doctors call is a CF cleaning or exaborhation.  They put a "pick line" in her arm so they could administer the antibiotics via IV.  She's OK.  Her chest x ray looks good, her blood ox is a bit low and her chest is slightly  over inflated ,which is a concern but also typical of CF patients.   They hope she'll be released from the hospital in a couple of days but the pick line will stay in for a week or so and Emma will get trained to do the treatments at home with a visiting nurse.  Emma told us not to worry, that this is pretty standard CF therapy .  The doctors said Sydney is a real trooper and responding well to all.  These are the times when it's hard being away. 

Locking through the Deep Creek Lock, VA                                                                Signpost at the lock

Great Dismal Swamp Canal

Docked at the North Carolina Visitors Center - Great Dismal Swamp

Note - short sleeves and sandals on Joyce - next stop shorts!

Boats rafted at the Visitors Center - Great Dismal Swamp

Wednesday, October 27, 2004

Lots going on today.

By the time we got all the boats untied and everyone was off the dock it was 7:45am.  Motoring down the canal, keeping a good distance between us,  we made a long line of boats heading for the 8:30am bridge opening and lock through.  I noticed that the Island Packet in front of us had a lot of smoke coming from his exhaust.  Earlier this morning  when we were standing around on the docks someone concerned that this boat might have a problem with its water intake (because of all the smoke coming from the exhaust)  had commented to the owner about it and the owner shrugged it off as his generator and said something about the water exhaust being below the waterline.  Suddenly  he's stopped in front of us and drifting off the side of the channel getting his mast caught in the tree tops.  I tried to get his attention and radioed him to see what the problem was but to no avail.

Finally as we approached he said he had an engine problem and asked us to tow him.  But he had waited too long and by the time he threw us a line and failed to get it to us on the first attempt we weren't able to back up without putting ourselves in danger.  So we passed on by and the next boat was able to get him in tow.   At this point we had 11 boats heading for the bridge and scheduled lock through but Bob and Pat who were towing the Island Packet couldn't keep up.  So we slowed down in the hopes of getting the lockmaster to hold off for a bit.  Bob and Pat finally caught up and the bridge opened.  Bob and Pat  had decided they didn't want to risk towing this guy through the bridge and made arrangements to cast him off just before so he could drift through and over to a wall where he could tie up and resolve his problem.   The boats ahead of us went through the bridge and just as we approached the bridge it came down!  But have no fear - the lock tender just had to let the trraffic clear and up came the bridge again.  So we started through with Bob and Pat, the Island Packet and another sailboat.  Well, the Island Packet didn't make it through and the lboat behind him  ended up picking him up and towing him into the lock.

We locked through with 12 boats including the disabled Island Packet.  As we left the locks a Tartan 41 took the Island Packet in tow and offered tow them all the way to a marina.  Next thing we heard on the radio was that the Island Packet had power again. Turned out the owner  had forgotten to open a seacock and the engine overheated.  Could have saved a lot of people a lot of trouble if he had investigated when someone made that first comment to him earlier this morning.  Oh, well, all's well that ends well.  A lovely day and beautiful trip. 

Coming out into the Pasquotank River after being in the long narrow, straight canal was a welcomed sight.  The river was wide and winding and very beautiful.   Arrived in Elizabeth City NC at 12:30pm.  What a great town.  Very friendly people and very welcoming to cruisers.  It is known as the "Harbor of Hospitality" and they lived up to that title.  They offer  free city dockage and there were two very friendly retired Navy gentlemen to greet us and tell us where to dock.  After we docked they told us that at 4:30 pm they host a wine and cheese party under the tent for all cruisers.  They are part of a group of locals called the "Rose Buddies".  The story goes that they are perpetuating the custom of two gentlemen who years ago brought gifts of roses or newspapers to the women on visiting yachts.  The Rose Buddies have taken over the tradition and through their personal touch are reminding us all to stop and smell the roses. 

Walked around town and up the street to the post office and a produce stand and small market where they sell the "best sausage in the south".  After we were finished making our purchase the owner asked us if we'd like a ride back to the marina.  This town is so friendly to cruisers it's amazing. 

Went to the wine and cheese party.  Instead of roses they were giving out cotton flowers (the flowers of cotton plants with the cotton bursting out-very pretty).  They were very proud of their southern heritage and their beautiful cotton flowers.  I talked to Fred Fearing, the 90 year old organizer of the group.  When I told him we were from upstate NY he said that he had some new neighbors from NY and gave me his address and  insured me that if I came by his house at 109 Fearing Street  he would "escort" me across the street and introduce me to his new neighbors!  What a treat being treated with such hospitality and gentility. 

Talked to Sydney on the phone today.  She sounded good and told me all about her experience at the hospital.  We're still hoping she'll go home by the weekend.

At the docks, Elizabeth City NC

Thursday, October 28, 2004

Left Elizabeth City at 8:00 am and headed across Ablemarle Sound and then south down the Alligator River.  No alligators here but cypress swamp on both sides.  I think it got its name from the fact that when you look at it on a map its shape resembles an alligator.  Arrived at Deep Point on the southern end of the Alligator River at 2:30pm.  Decided not to try to make the next 30 miles through the Alligator River-Pungo River canal but instead enjoy the lovely afternoon and celebrate my birthday with a nice shrimp dinner!  Tomorrow we will leave early and try to get a long day in - want to get further south before a front comes through this weekend. 

Friday, October 29, 2004

Left the anchorage at 7:00am and decided to try to make it all the way to across the Palmico River and the Neuse River and into Adams Creek before dark.  Weather is calling for southwest winds 20knots tomorrow and that would make the Neuse River crossing rather nasty.  More canal, swamp and rivers! As far as we can see on either side of the canal is nothing but swamp.  No sign of human life other than the occasional passing boater.  The water through all these canals since we left the Chesapeake has been a dark tea brown color - not very appealing.  Can't wait for cleaner water.  Anchored in Cedar creek just off Adams Creek at 5:30pm.  A long day - 85 statute miles - but we're glad to have that part of North Carolina behind us.

Saturday, October 30, 2004

Had planned taking a lay over day here after a couple of long days but there's no phone reception and I wanted to work on the website, email, etc and be able to talk to Emma and get news of Sydney and William.  So we decided to do a short day to Spooner Creek just on the other side of Beaufort and Moorehead City.  Raised anchor at 8:00am and headed out. More canal, swamp and more swamp!  As we come out of the canal and approach Moorehead City we saw dolphins!  A couple of pods of them in front of us.  They were playing and jumping completely out of the water!  It was spectacular.  Then they got in front of the bow of the boat and just kept swimming along and playing.  It was so cool.  Anchored in Spooner Creek at 11:25pm. 

Talked to Emma and Sydney.  They're going home from the hospital this afternoon.  Good news. William has a soccer game this afternoon.

Oh - we're in shorts, sandals, and tee shirts and it's supposed to go into the 80'sthis afternoon.  Water has turned a nice blue and we saw some palm trees too! 

More canals and swamps

Dolphin playing under our bow